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On October 8th 2023, Robbie Elsbury became the 3rd person to lead Acid Rock. Acid Rock is THE 5.12 at Devils Lake. While only about 40 feet in length, it packs a punch. Most folks are quite happy with a top rope ascent, given that the options for protection involve 3 strong friends, a crash pad, and a tensioned hook equalized with a #1 brassie. The chasm below the route also deters most head pointers from considering this “lead-able”.
Robbie however, is the CPW’s Headpoint Aficionado.
With a borrowed skyhook, Michael and Sky holding a crash pad across the chasm, and Garrett on belay, Robbie set off on a lead. He nailed the Crouton Check Valve Move and then the unthinkable happened. His foot slipped. Robbie came careening down. Garrett jumped backwards off the pedestal in the hopes of using the rope to pull him onto the ledge, Sky caught the waistbelt of his harness with one hand and held him teetering on the edge of the pedestal.
Robbie fell off a lead of Acid Rock and lived to tell the tale.
He quickly stated, “well that wasn’t supposed to happen.”
After a smoke and composing himself, he cracked a few jokes about us saving his life and then set off again. Nailing the Crouton Move and keeping his feet on this time, he quickly equalized his nest of “body weight only” gear and proceeded into the crux. We all breathed a sigh of relief as he dove to the jug and caught it. Finally getting some good gear in too. He looked down at us and laughed, saying, “I sure hope I don’t f*** it up now.” Always relaxed under pressure. How does he do it?
Robbie bagged a rare lead of Acid Rock after an even more rare fall off Acid Rock.
Headpoint Aficionado to describe Robbie might be an understatement.