Michael Larson on Flake Route

Dave Groth once told me he was welcomed into the DLFA because of his lead of Flake Route. This was after telling Dave the story of how the CPW all came together over our shared love for Stool Pigeon, another classic headpoint route. You’ll hear some of the crew say you have to lead it to join the club.

Michael was new to the scene at Devils Lake, and met Garrett because he hired him as a guide for a day. He’s never missed a single weekend at the Lake since. He was a self-proclaimed, “budding trad climber.” He often sold himself short in that realm. With years of hard bouldering under his belt, we all assumed once he figured out how to fish small brassies into quartzite, he’d be better than all of us. He spent a few weeks hanging out with us while we worked our respective projects, soaking up the unique process of Devils Lake headpointing.

Then he found the Flake Route. Almost any climber will tell you there’s one or two routes that have a special place in their heart. I think Michael had found that.

So with exactly one previous trad climb, having been shown how exactly to place the crux offset stopper, and with no experience on double ropes, Michael headpointed the Flake Route.

On that day, I had to tell Michael he isn’t a budding trad climber, he’s a damn good one.

The CPW typically accepts leads of Stool Pigeon as an application to the club, but given that Flake Route is definitely harder…. Dr. Michael, your application has been approved.